About 14 kilometers (9 miles) south of San Felipe on the road to Puertecitos in Baja California is a truly magical local attraction, the Valley of the Giants. The giants inhabiting the valley are a forest of impressively huge cardón cacti (Pachycereus pringlei), commonly known as the elephant cactus or Mexican Giant cactus. Such large stands of the tall columnar, branched cacti are called “cardónales”. The cardóns have the distinction of being the largest cacti in the world, and the most impressive cacti in the Valley of the Giants preserve tower 70 feet above the classic Baja desert terrain. Large individuals can weigh in at 25 tons and can live over 300 years.
The giant cacti’s common name Cardón arises from the Spanish word “cardo”, meaning “thistle”. Interestingly, the massive spiky cacti inspired Baja California’s first Spanish name of “Isla de Cardón”, given by Hernando Cortés when he came to the Baja peninsula in the early 1500’s at the time when he mistakenly thought that Baja was an island. The first word of the cacti’s Latin name “Pachycereus pringlei” comes from “pachy” meaning “thick” and “cereus” meaning “waxy”, while the second word of the Latin name was given in honor of the American botanist, Cyrus Pringle who named the species.
The deserts of the Baja California peninsula are the primary habitat of these spiny, gray-green, thick-armed, waxy-skinned giants, and the San Felipe Desert is the northern-most extent of their range. The cardón prefers soil such as that found in the mouths of arroyos and grows between sea level and up to elevations of about 3000 feet throughout the Baja peninsula deserts, although it is confined to the regions that remain relatively free of frost. While a few forests of cardón can be found across the Sea of Cortez in mainland Mexico, these primarily Baja California natives should not be confused with the superficially similar but botanically distinct saguaro cactus (carnegiea gigantean) that does not live in Baja, but instead commonly inhabits the more northerly Sonoran Desert of Arizona.
The cardón’s characteristic shape of tall branching columnar arms based on a shorter, thicker trunk is well adapted for the cactus to present more surface area to the cooler early morning and late afternoon sun, while minimizing exposure to the stronger midday sun. The multi-arm structure increases the cacti’s efficiency in collecting the sun’s rays. Since the cardón has no leaves, it instead uses its skin to perform the vital function of photosynthesis, making it a “cladophyll”. To preserve precious desert water, the cardón’s stomata open to the cooler air after sunset to take in the carbon dioxide that is needed for its photosynthetic metabolism.
The younger cardón cacti have more spines to protect them from foragers, but the spines eventually fall off with age leaving a gray, fluted woody bark that somewhat resembles the legs of an elephant, hence one of its common names “elephant cactus”. The cactus is supported by tough, light and woody vertical ribs that expand and contract in accordion fashion, depending on its water supply. This rib system allows the cardón to store large amounts of water (up to a ton of water for especially large individuals) and to adjust to changing desert water conditions. These woody ribs often remain as an impressive standing monument many years after the plant itself dies.
In the spring, the cardón cactus displays white trumpet flowers on its upper arms, especially on the warmer southerly side. The flowers last from the afternoon until the middle of the following morning so that nectar-loving bats can pollinate them. The cacti rely upon such bats for reproduction in order to produce their fruits and seeds in the late summer. Birds and bats enjoy the ripe, fuzzy fruit, which is around two inches in diameter and contains hundreds of black seeds. The seeds start to grow in warm, wet conditions such as those following the late summer desert rains, but they need the shade of another plant and to be scarred for successful germination. Even when conditions are just right for their growth, thousands of germinating seeds might only produce one cactus in the harsh desert conditions where foragers consider the cardón seedlings a tasty morsel. When they do survive, the cardón seedlings grow at the very slow pace of only one inch per year, often taking ten years or more to emerge from the shade of their nurse plant. When mature, the larger cacti are threatened mainly by cattle grazing, human predation, and “flat top decay”, which primarily affects and withers the top of the cactus.
Visitors to the Valley of the Giants should be aware that the Cardón cacti and all of Baja California wild life are protected under Mexican law which requires permits to remove any cactus from its soil, so taking cacti from their natural habitat and replanting them in your garden is prohibited and fines for cactus poaching can be as high as $25,000. Gardeners are therefore advised to leave native desert cacti alone and to be careful that vendors they wish to buy cacti from are legitimate nursery cactus providers. One clue is that wild cacti are often more scarred and irregular than cultivated cacti due to predation.
An interesting historical highlight involving the cardón cacti took place in 1992, when Mexico sent a 45-foot tall 150 year-old living cardón cactus from the Valley of the Giants on a transatlantic voyage to Seville in Spain to honor the 500th anniversary of the “discovery” of the Americas in 1492 by Cristobal Colón (also known as Christopher Columbus). Oddly enough, the journey of this impressive ambassador cactus was far from easy and its trip to Spain was initially plagued by such problems as: its lifting cranes breaking cables and getting stuck in the sand, and its transport truck breaking down and waiting days on the highway for repairs. Nevertheless, despite the obstacles, the cactus eventually made it to Seville, roots and all, where it was installed in a place of honor, although reportedly its information plaque incorrectly stated its age as 1,500 years old!
Those who have enjoyed seeing the California redwoods will most certainly find the Valley of the Giants an interesting place to visit. Excellent photographic opportunities of the spectacular scenery and towering cacti abound for a modest entrance fee of only $10 per vehicle. While a conventional car and a pair of hiking shoes make several interesting parts of the attraction accessible, a four-wheel drive vehicle has access to a rough circular drive where many more of the giant cacti can be viewed and photographed against the impressive backdrop of the Baja Mountains.
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